The Atlantic was there to be crossed and the Azores beckoned. It was in the air and in the good Bermuda sundowner. But the global weather models were in tight agreement, a blustery norther was brewing with 35 knot gusts and worse still, a bit ahead of the beam. The tough old monohulls and grizzled sailors left for the bashing, it is their pedigree. Parallax chafed at her anchor. But a better pattern revealed itself, purchased with only a couple days delay. So we hit the White Horse bar one more time, at 24 dollars a burger once might be enough, and readied for a 30 May departure.
Customs and immigratiom… exit formalities completed, passports stamped. Bermuda Radio after a short hold for a passing ship cleared us to exit St Georges cut "Fair seas Captain" and we were off! 1800 nautical miles as the crow flies, somewhere to the East and North lay the Azores.
After a less than glorious start, I had forgotten I now had TWO reef lines to release. We avoided the surrounding rocky reefs and a public chastisement from Bermuda radio. (though im sure they were entertained) The three stooges counting Willoughby the Pom were off.
I had of course studied and compared the ever changing and often argumentative major weather models, and in the end relied on Chris Parker’s advice tempered by what I thought we could do. The first few days all weather models were in tight agreement which usually portends a reliable forecast. We left Bermuda at 32 degrees north latitude , the plan: sail North East around and over a patch of dead air and then find wind to sail along 34-35 degrees North for a few days until a predicted norther drove us south to as low as 30 degrees.
The first couple days we sailed generally northeast and had good wind to average 8 to 9 knots. We headed more eastward as we approached 34 North and yes, cut it too close and sailed directly into no wind. Loath to use much diesel so early in the trip we took a day to lounge in the sun, swim a bit in the cobalt waters and let the wind come to us, but after a day of frolicking we did use the iorn genny a bit and sailed to the new wind... we were off again.
The next few days great wind and we sailed along at good speed without pushing much. we begin to fade south too avoid the worst of a strong front and northerly winds dropping from the North as the system went east. That of course was giving ground (or sea) as the Azores lay around 38 degrees North. The question how far South, depended on how much of the norther did we want to encounter. After mulling over the models, consulting with the weather router we decided not to drop all the way to 30 but stayed along the 32/33 degree north. The wind and sea indeed get a bit blustery but we sailed along with reefed main and for the next few days made good time. The trouble with getting to low or losing too much distance was once the system passed, the wind would back to the west then south west and go light.
That would put lighter wind directly on the stern after a day or two and thats certainly not the best for a sailing vessel. But for the first coulple days after the system passed it was a broad reach, which the screecher sail made good use of. When the wind lightened and went further aft we considered setting the spin but the wind hung on and we were able to push it forward enough to keep decent 6 to 7 knot boat speed so we left the spin in its sock.
Meanwhile tropical storm Alex had been festering its way up the US coast and was predicted to turn the corner and in combination with a system off Newfoundland Alex was reborn and predicted to race through the north atlantic on a course that would take it directly over the top of us and within shouting distance of the northern most Azore Island, Flores. We had plenty of head start and it was likley to be far enough North of us that even if it caugt up, other than a real stiff kick in in the a## for a few hours not too bad, but we had to get North still and the wind was not cooperating, There's all ways the chance that the storm track is off a bit and instead of roaring over the top at 40 degrees it might take a slant to the south lace up its sneakers and run right over us, full on, if we were dallying around. So theres that.
We sailed a gybe angle North to keep the wind up but after a few hours decided a little diesel and direct course on the ruhmb line would put us too Faial before she could catch us and even if she did go a bit south of the predicted path we would be in the Horta Harbor. This might not be the best place to be if Alex dropped all the way down but I really didnt see this happening and you have to make a call. The alternative would be to stop the boat well south with plenty of open sea and wait 3 days for her to pass, leaving us still 2 days from Faial. So we motor sailed on and as we approached Faial got some favorable wind and sailed the last 12 hours for a very early morning land fall.
Land Ho!!!! the feeling is really indescribable and it never gets old to me after a long crossing. There lay Horta harbor past the bluff and the magnificent Volcano of Pico south and east, what a vissage. The harbor was crowded and the marina control urged us to go as deep in the harbor as we could , a lot of boats, more comming, this was after all the atlantic crossing season so we did find a prime spot directly across form the marina and administrative buildings well in the harbor. Alex was still out there closing fast so I was glad to feel the hook take a solid bite.
I put out ss much scope as I could get away with in the crowded harbor and after settling a bit, backed down pretty hard, as Jack Nicholson would say you cant be afraid to know the truth. And there we were, under the spell of Pico when Alex roared North of us that night on the predicted Path and on schedule. The winds hit 50 plus for a brief time and I could hear and barley make out some confusion as a few boats in the back of the harbor broke loose.
But if your in that harbor anchored, chances are you know how to cope and in the dim light a bit of shouting and S'Load of wind they all got it sorted rehooked and after 10 minutes it was done. Welcone to the Azores
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