A great story involving the last of the great owner skippers Ted Turner and his tactician on the Americas cup, and Gary Jobson perhaps the best sailor in the world at that time. Its storied Turner in the midst of a tactical battle said to Jobson "Tell me right or left tell me right now" I had this quote framed in my office. Make the decision and rely on your team who, if you have chosen well, are smarter than you. Well, I'm no Ted turner or Gary Jobson and as Parallax approached Bermuda, I still wasn't sure ... Right or left.
Bermuda, the one-time almost mythical island paradise, just 600 miles off the east coast of the US. THE place to go for an island paradise vacation. Often the first offshore destination for would be ocean sailors. It is still that, but the world has grown smaller and tropical paradises in the Carib, central America and even the pacific atolls are now just as easy, maybe easier to access. Bermuda is still one of the most beautiful islands you can see, but the flip side of vigorous covid lockdowns has taken its toll. Horribly expensive, closed shops, and the locals speak off hardship and fledgling gangs, though I must be clear I have never seen before or on this visit anything that would give me the slightest pause. The Bermudians are a welcoming and friendly lot and keep their island in immaculate condition. The cruise ships still frequent the Historic Naval Dockyard built and preserved in conjunction with a cruise ship haven, but tourism has not recovered. It is still for the most part welcome to sailors as a destination or stopover on the way to Europe. But make sure you're well stocked, provisioning on the island will leave your wallet on iron supplements.
Entry to St George Harbor, the storied first point of entry for formalities is through a very narrow cut, so narrow the larger cruise ships cannot negotiate the entrance. Whatever you think about cruise ships, and I won't offer my opinion, in the early 2000’s when cruise ships weren't so obscenely enormous, the St George harbor visage always included a white smoking horizon. Bustle and hustle, passengers on and off no t-shirt left untouched ( I guess I sort of offered my opinion which is really not fair as the St George economy, built to live off the cruise ships suffered mightily when the behemoths all diverted to the main city of Hamilton or the Naval Dockyard) The cut is so narrow permission must be sought from Bermuda radio to enter and exit and sailing through that historic cut is always inspiring. The Bermuda authorities… very Britt sounding, professional and ever watchful of those ships approaching their reef surrounded island courteously welcome you to Bermuda with permission to enter.” Cleared, to enter Parallax, welcome to Bermuda Captain”
This was my 4th trip to Bermuda, twice single handed, and once with my then 72-year-old dad who was a natural sailor on what proved to be a highlight of his later years. If I should make this trip again, I would stop here again but the cachet has definitely worn thin. Familiarity? Robyn had not visited the island previously but was afraid for good reason to rent the ubiquitous scooters, the only allowable rental vehicle for tourists. The Bermudian roads though well-kept are notoriously winding narrow, cliff lined, and without shoulders. Cut, bruised and sometimes broken tourists and their scooters are not unknown. Thankfully, walking St George and environs offers great photos and the buses and ferries are first rate, easy to use and can get you anywhere and back. The one-day mix and match hop off and on ferry/bus ticket, is the ticket. I however had no such reservations regarding rental scooters even though I am a somewhat less than proficient, read horrible, scooter sailor. I rented a sharp little number and happily terrified, buzzed the entire island. .
The History of Bermuda is fascinating, Spanish, British, civil wars choosing sides in the American civil war. The Historic Naval dockyard now restored is worth the price of admission. Just a teaser from Wiki…
Bermuda's pink sand beaches and clear, cerulean blue ocean waters are popular with tourists.[49] Many of Bermuda's hotels are located along the south shore of the island. In addition to its beaches, there are a number of sightseeing attractions. Historic St. George's is a designated World Heritage Site. Scuba divers can explore numerous wrecks and coral reefs in relatively shallow water (typically 30–40 ft or 9–12 m in depth), with virtually unlimited visibility. Many nearby reefs are readily accessible from shore by snorkellers, especially at Church Bay.
Bermuda's most popular visitor attraction is the Royal Naval Dockyard, which includes the National Museum of Bermuda.[50] Other attractions include the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo,[51] Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute, the Botanical Gardens and Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art, lighthouses, and the Crystal Caves with stalactites and underground saltwater pools.
Public transport and taxis are available or visitors can hire scooters for use as private transport.[52] Public transport and taxis are available or visitors can hire scooters for use as private transport. Non-residents are prohibited from driving cars on the island.[52] Public transport and taxis are available, or visitors can hire scooters for use as private transport. [46[46[46[52] Public transport and taxis are available or visitors can hire
So RIGHT it is, toward the Azores and mainland Europe, really it was probably never in doubt once it's in your head the rest is just rationalization.
Planned departure is somewhere around the end of May first of June. Weather will dictate the departure. The passage will be around 1900 nautical miles. The late spring weather is settling but you can still expect a passing front to add excitement or if you sail north to 40 degrees even ice! Being a bit of a sissy, Parallax’s Captain will stay a bit south but still north enough to catch some westerlies. Parallax is built for speed not smashing her way through weather, we try to sail her as she was designed to be sailed. She doesn't require a lot of wind. So, we will not be rushed, we will look for the best weather we can find and then scurry off to the Azores.
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